Locate small single wire connector about 2 inches behind
the 16 pin OBD II connector on the same harness. With
ignition off ground the single wire, then turn the ignition
to the run position. At this point momentarily un-ground
and ground this wire 5 times in ten seconds. If done
successfully the TPMS lamp will start to flash, remove
jumper wire and start engine. Light will continue to flash
Now you have two options

1. with the reset tool starting with the left front working
clockwise trigger each sensor this is the recommended way

2. or simply drive the vehicle over 50kmph until the lamp
stops blinking and goes out. Be aware this drive method can
take over 10 min.

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Tip: TPMS reset proceedure w/o Nissan tool
Vehicle: 2007 Nissan Quest SL
Category/Subcategory: Maintenance / Procedures
Title/Heading: MAINTENANCE REMINDER LIGHT RESET PROCEDURES / 2004-06 ARMADA, FRONTIER, MURANO, PATHFINDER, QUEST, TITAN, XTERRA & 350Z
Posted By: Dougwrench 
Shop: SOUTH END CAR CLINIC INC
Date: 1/19/2009

If you have a rear wiper that sometimes/never works (and the rear windsheild washer works) and is getting power/ground but doesn’t want to move, it’s the Alarm and Relay Control Unit.  It’s not commanding the motor to come out of park so it just binds up the motor.  Replace the unit and allow the motor to reset it’s self and you should be good to go.

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Tip: Rear wiper does not work
Vehicle: 2000 Isuzu Rodeo LS
Category/Subcategory: Accessories and Equipment / Wiper/Washer Systems
Title/Heading: WIPER/WASHER SYSTEMS / TROUBLE SHOOTING
Posted By: Matt A.
Shop: 10 MILE TELEGRAPH BP AMOCO
Date: 1/24/2009

The engine stalls immediatly after starting. Key on, engine running test shows PO505. IAC was replaced twice, but did not fix. First make sure you have power on both the red & white/light blue wires, key on engine off. If you do then have someone start the car and keep running at low idle speed. Give the white/light blue wire a ground signal.( I did this with the power probe 3) The idle should raise to about 2000rpm, until you stop giving a ground. If it does not raise rpm, the iac is bad. If it did raise rpm, check your pcm connection, if all okay, replace pcm. The pcm fixed this one!

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Tip: Stalls after starting
Vehicle: 1995 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
Category/Subcategory: Engine Performance / Testing and Diagnostics
Title/Heading: TESTS W/O CODES - EEC-V (4.6L) / STALLS AFTER START
Posted By: JohnS33
Shop: AAA OF TIDEWATER 258
Date: 1/13/2009

This vehicle is a ‘05 Chevy Classic “Malibu”. Customer complaint was an intermittent ABS light coming on. Test drove vehicle & noticed quite a fluctuation in the right front wheel speed sensor readings-showed 23 mph while driving in shop parking lot @ 8 mph. Suspected faulty sensor even though vehicle had low mileage. Tested hub & found no faults. Verified vehicle harness for integrity & found no faults either. I’ve been down the road before where the harness has been compromised but can’t see it. That being said, I unplugged the ABS control module harness behind left front wheel well & with the use of my universal noid light I isolated the harness from the module to the right front– Green/Tan wires. Next I applied 12v with my power probe from the harness “unplugged”at the module side to the right front wheel speed sensor where my noid light was attached. The light came on bright showing good connections throughout. Next with power still applied I did a wiggle test around the harness near the right lower control arm…light started to flicker… gotch ya!!  Pulled back the wire loom to expose the harness & discovered 2 spots where the insulation was cracked & salt invaded. Replaced with GM repair harness p/n 19177103 which is about 2-1/2 feet long, & problem solved!!!  Check out the picture, I cut the plug off & you can see the tip off the green wire where the insulation was split.  Good luck to the next guy down this road.    Jeremy G.

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Tip: ABS LIGHT ON, ALL CIRCUITS APPEAR OK
Vehicle: 2005 Chevrolet Classic
Category/Subcategory: Brakes / Anti-Lock/Traction Control
Title/Heading: ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM / C1232 through C1235
Posted By: Jeremy G
Shop: VILLAGE CENTER AUTO CARE
Date: 1/27/2009

Vehicle came into shop with MIL glowing and a P0136. I tested the resistance on the heater circuit of the 02 sensor. It tested fine at about 8ohms. I decided to wiggle the harness on the 02 to be sure and thats when it went hay wire. Resistance flickered from 4ohms - 50ohms and then to an open circuit. When the wire harness was open up it exposed the bad wires on the heater circuit. It appears that the after market Bosch sensor has corrected this issue. Good Luck.

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Tip: 1.8L/ DTC P0136: HO2S CIRCUIT - SENSOR 2
Vehicle: 2000 Chevrolet Prizm
Category/Subcategory: Engine Performance / Testing and Diagnostics
Title/Heading: SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - 1.8L / DTC P0136: HO2S CIRCUIT - SENSOR 2
Posted By: Eric O.
Shop: SOUTH MAIN AUTO REPAIR
Date: 1/14/2009

I’ll try to save you from a situation you don’t want to have to try to explain your way out of.

Some ZF transmissions have a transmission mounted parking brake assy.  Hidden on the drivers side (of the one that I am tweaking on) between the bracket for the parking brake cable and the speed sensor/ speedo drive is a fill plug.  If all of the oil leaks out at once the spot will be smaller than a Geo metro piston ring.  If you happen to be the primary care physician for one of these gems it would be a wise idea to make sure there is some juice in that thing. Can you hear it now? “What do you mean there wasn’t any oil in it?  Didn’t you check that last month when you changed my oil?  How could you not know that there is oil in it?  Aren’t you a mechanic?”  you get the picture.  supposedly they are not serviceable and you must buy the entire unit.  $$$$  It costs less than the trans, but far more than it’s worth.  I rebuilt this one.  I’ll make a tip about that surgery tomorrow.  that thing held less than 4oz of oil.

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Tip: ZF transmission parking brake assembly.
Vehicle: 1988 Ford F-Super Duty
Category/Subcategory: General Information / Basic Trouble Shooting
Title/Heading: BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING - GENERAL INFORMATION / ARTICLE BEGINNING
Posted By: Kevin C
Shop: RODOC LEASING AND SALES
Date: 12/18/2008

PROBLEM: 3.5L Chrysler that has an audible vacuum leak in the intake manifold area, but may not respond to carb cleaner enrichment techniques while attempting to locate. Viual inspection of hoses and lines reveals nothing.

POSSIBLE CAUSE: There is a set of plugs that block off passages under the upper intake that intersect with the grooves for the gasket. They can fall out during a repair and go undetected until reassembled. Have not found them available seperate from the upper intake. $$$

EXAMPLE: Technician “A” (not me, not here) removes plenum to replace cam position sensor, plug gets knocked out, car now has strange loud whistling noise, especially at idle, and it gets worse when warmed up. Mechanic “B” (Which I proudly prefer to call myself.) gets to search for and find mysterious noise and make money replacing expensive part.

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Tip: Vacuum leak on 3.5
Vehicle: 2004 Chrysler 300M
Category/Subcategory: Engine Performance / Vacuum Diagrams
Title/Heading: VACUUM DIAGRAMS / VACUUM DIAGRAMS
Posted By: M. Bliss
Shop: KENS SVC CTR HANOVER INC
Date: 12/31/2008

When you encounter a GM product with broken wires at ig switch and the junker isn’t worth a new key/cyclinder, there is an alternative to repair this. It will cost about a dollar to fix and 20 minutes of time. If the car isn’t worth a dollar, then push it to the creek and walk back! What you do is measure the resisiter in the key, make another resisiter same value with some radio shack parts, and put in the harnesss. No need for new key and cylinder. I think this could be done on a passlock too but I haven’t experimented with that yet. If none of this makes sense then have a look-get a laugh too.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWwSzY6Vmpg

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Tip: NO START GM ANTI-THEFT WIRES BROKEN AT IG SW
Vehicle: 1995 Buick LeSabre Custom
Category/Subcategory: General Information / Basic Trouble Shooting
Title/Heading: BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING - GENERAL INFORMATION / ARTICLE BEGINNING
Posted By: JakeP.
Shop: JAKES AUTOMOTIVE
Date: 12/17/2008

If you work on vehicles long enough you are likely to encounter one of these in your shop with a P0401. Its also likely you will discover that the EGR passages are clogged up. First begin by disconnecting the EGR valve connector and with the engine running supply power to pin #4 of EGR Valve and a ground to pin #6 of EGR valve. The engine should stall immediately. If not remove the EGR valve and verify it is opening when you put power to it.. If it is, its time to remove the upper intake and water crossover. Now according to TSB #05-026 released by Honda they only remove the upper plenum. I found it to be much more thorough to remove the water crossover that way you can make sure you get all of the carbon. Besides these vehicles are usually leaking water there, so its a good time to “kill two birds with one rock” if you know what I mean. The “EGR Kit” Honda sells is a bargain when you are doing this job because it comes with a new EGR valve all the gaskets you need (except water crossover) and the new “EGR pipe” if your upper plenum does not have one installed. And its less money that just buying the EGR valve. Go figure. The pictures say more than the words so have a look at them for more explanation. Good Luck!!

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Tip: 2000 Honda Odyssey EX EGR SYSTEM/ DTC P0401: EGR System Insufficient Flow
Vehicle: 2000 Honda Odyssey EX
Category/Subcategory: Engine Performance / Testing and Diagnostics
Title/Heading: EGR SYSTEM / DTC P0401: EGR System Insufficient Flow
Posted By: Eric O.
Shop: SOUTH MAIN AUTO REPAIR
Date: 12/13/2008

was rebuilding a NV4500 manual trans and ran across the endplate for the mainshaft. It is an aluminum plate with a tapered bearing race pressed into it. Had to replace the race it but no way to get behind it or anything, guy here told me to weld a bead with the MIG welder all the way around in the center of the race and it will fall right out. Was skeptical, you would think that the heat from the weld would make it tighter, not so, welded it, turned it over and it fell out. It made my day. You could use this for any situation where you need to get a bearing race out of a blind hole

in the pic you can see the bearing race with the weld on it, and its sitting on top of the retainer plate it was pressed into

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Tip: Blind bearing race removal trick
Vehicle: 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Category/Subcategory: General Information / Basic Trouble Shooting
Title/Heading: BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING - GENERAL INFORMATION / ARTICLE BEGINNING
Posted By: Ben350
Shop: PRECISION ENVIRONMENTAL
Date: 12/10/2008