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	<title>OnDemand Live Tips</title>
	<link>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com</link>
	<description>Archive for OnDemand Live User Tips</description>
	<pubDate>Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:37:47 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>1995 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - HARD STARTING HOT, by Jeremy G at Village Center Auto Care</title>
		<link>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=124</link>
		<comments>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=124#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:37:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ntaylor</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[March 2009 Winners]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=124</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Problem vehicle is a 1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0L.  Seems to start ok on cold soak overnight, but once running it was hard to restart. Vehicle seemed to run awful rich but failed to set any codes. The overall condition of this vehicle was poor, so we needed to keep it going cheap as it is [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Problem vehicle is a 1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0L.  Seems to start ok on cold soak overnight, but once running it was hard to restart. Vehicle seemed to run awful rich but failed to set any codes. The overall condition of this vehicle was poor, so we needed to keep it going cheap as it is DEFINITLEY ON IT LAST LEG!!!  Anyway 1st fault discovered was the air intake boot. It&#8217;d been bothced up by anther shop with the Black Tape, but was clearly a vacuum leak&#8211;(air entering the motor without passing thru the MAF). Replaced the air intake hose &amp; problem was better but not fixed. Couldn&#8217;t seem to start it after a short test drive &amp; a 10-15 min soak. Engine was always flooding out.  Fuel smell was quite evident, but hard to locate. Finally discovered fuel inside new air intake hose.  Looking into the plenum with throttle wide open fuel was puddled up everywhere. Tip Time. This vehicle has a COLD START INJECTOR located 180&#8242; from the throttle body. Upon removal I discovered even with it unplugged the injector was still dumping serious amount of fuel into the intake &amp; needed replacement.  Replaced the faulty injector &amp; all is perfect.</p>
<p><a href="http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/figure_1.jpg" title="Figure 1"><img src="http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/figure_1.thumbnail.jpg" alt="Figure 1" /></a>     <a href="http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/figure_2.jpg" title="Figure 2"><img src="http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/figure_2.thumbnail.jpg" alt="Figure 2" /></a></p>
<p>==========</p>
<p>Tip: HARD STARTING HOT<br />
Vehicle: 1995 Toyota 4Runner SR5<br />
Category/Subcategory: Engine Performance / Testing and Diagnostics<br />
Title/Heading: TESTS W/O CODES - 3.0L / Engine Difficult to Start Under Normal Conditions<br />
Posted By: Jeremy G<br />
Shop: VILLAGE CENTER AUTO CARE<br />
Date: 3/17/2009</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=124</wfw:commentRss>
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		<item>
		<title>2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - IAC Wiring, by diesel man at Brad&#8217;s Rebuild</title>
		<link>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=121</link>
		<comments>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=121#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:35:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ntaylor</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[March 2009 Winners]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=121</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[jeep comes in has a stalling prob.  hook it up and has numerous codes but only has to do with the stalling.  po505.  i let it run with a moniter in the pids and a graph of the iac actions.  never died or anything until i wiggled wiring at the back of the head coming [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>jeep comes in has a stalling prob.  hook it up and has numerous codes but only has to do with the stalling.  po505.  i let it run with a moniter in the pids and a graph of the iac actions.  never died or anything until i wiggled wiring at the back of the head coming out of the back of the injector harness insulator.  by the way this is a 4.0L.  i grab the harness and start feeling and find that the head stud had wore into the insutlation and started in on the brown w/white tracer wire.  the wire was grounding against the head stud very intermittently. while running i noticed the iac target and actual steps would go clear down to 0.  not right.  fixed the wiring and everything went back to normal.</p>
<p>==========</p>
<p>Tip: iac wiring<br />
Vehicle: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited<br />
Category/Subcategory: Engine Performance / Testing and Diagnostics<br />
Title/Heading: POWERTRAIN DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES / Symptom: P0505-IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR CIRCUITS<br />
Posted By: diesel man<br />
Shop: BRADS REBUILD<br />
Date: 3/12/2009</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=121</wfw:commentRss>
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		<item>
		<title>2004 Dodge Pickup R1500 - Throttle cut out when driving w/5.7 drive by wire, by ButchK at Butch&#8217;s Automotive Service</title>
		<link>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=120</link>
		<comments>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=120#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:34:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ntaylor</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[March 2009 Winners]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=120</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Codes P0703 and P2299 are stoplight switch codes , but when stoplight switch goes bad it can knock out electric throttle when driving .  Does not have to be on cruise , or at high speed . Computor senses throttle is applied and then that brakes are applied and knocks out electric throttle . Sometimes [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Codes P0703 and P2299 are stoplight switch codes , but when stoplight switch goes bad it can knock out electric throttle when driving .  Does not have to be on cruise , or at high speed . Computor senses throttle is applied and then that brakes are applied and knocks out electric throttle . Sometimes just a little movement of throttle pedal will wake throttle back up . Another clue is a red light in cluster with the symbol   ) / (  [ slash is electric volt ] will come on when problem occurs . This problem with knocking out throttle will not occur if brake is applied - then throttle [ as in power braking to load an engine ] .  This p[robley should also be posted in brake section .     Butch    </p>
<p>==========</p>
<p>Tip: Throttle cut out when driving w/5.7 drive by wire<br />
Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Pickup R1500<br />
Category/Subcategory: Accessories and Equipment / Communication Devices<br />
Title/Heading: POWERTRAIN DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES (PART 1) / ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS<br />
Posted By: ButchK<br />
Shop: BUTCHS AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE<br />
Date: 3/26/2009</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=120</wfw:commentRss>
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		<item>
		<title>1991 Toyota Previa DX - Engine will rev up to 2300 RPM than cut out until 1400 RPM, by Matt A. at 10 Mile Telegraph BP Amoco</title>
		<link>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=119</link>
		<comments>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=119#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:33:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ntaylor</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[March 2009 Winners]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=119</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Took about 3 days to figure this out.  Engine ran fine otherwise, no check engine light or anything.  Found out that the wire for the idle switch (blue/yellow wire off of TPS) will rub and short to ground - that&#8217;s when the computer thinks you are coasting with the foot off the gas so it [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Took about 3 days to figure this out.  Engine ran fine otherwise, no check engine light or anything.  Found out that the wire for the idle switch (blue/yellow wire off of TPS) will rub and short to ground - that&#8217;s when the computer thinks you are coasting with the foot off the gas so it cuts fuel (Spark will be there all the time) until it is able to get back down to 1400 rpm.  Just run another wire to the computer and all will be well agian!<br />
==========</p>
<p>Tip: Engine will rev up to 2300 RPM than cut out until 1400 RPM<br />
Vehicle: 1991 Toyota Previa DX<br />
Category/Subcategory: Engine Performance / Testing and Diagnostics<br />
Title/Heading: TESTS W/O CODES / SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS<br />
Posted By: Matt A.<br />
Shop: 10 MILE TELEGRAPH BP AMOCO<br />
Date: 3/24/2009</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=119</wfw:commentRss>
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		<item>
		<title>2001 Toyota Tacoma - Rear axle bearing seal leak, by Tim__G at Jay&#8217;s Car Repair</title>
		<link>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=118</link>
		<comments>http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=118#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:32:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>ntaylor</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[March 2009 Winners]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://tips.mitchellondemand.com/?p=118</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We had a Tacoma that had the rear axle bearing and seal replaced at another shop.  Customer came to us because previous shop attempted to repair several times to no avail.  Upon initial inspection , it appeared that the inner seal was damaged.  so I replaced inner seal and brake linings.. A few weeks later [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We had a Tacoma that had the rear axle bearing and seal replaced at another shop.  Customer came to us because previous shop attempted to repair several times to no avail.  Upon initial inspection , it appeared that the inner seal was damaged.  so I replaced inner seal and brake linings.. A few weeks later car comes back for an oil change.   I reinspected repairs and to my dismay, it was still leaking gear oil .a more in depth inspection was nessesary.   upon a closer inspection ,I removed the A.B.S. speed sensor from both axles&#8230;</p>
<p>looking in through the hole , I could see what the problem might be.  the A.B.S tone wheel was positioned further out on the right side axle.  something did not look right.   removing the axle , i could see the problem.  the previous installer had pressed the bearing retainer on too far.  resulting in the inner seal to not ride in its correct position.  mater of fact it was not even in contact with the surface on the retainer&#8230;</p>
<p>See step #2 for further instructions, and figure #4 for reference. </p>
<p>==========</p>
<p>Tip: Rear axle bearing seal leak.<br />
Vehicle: 2001 Toyota Tacoma<br />
Category/Subcategory: Driveline/Axles / Differentials &amp; Drive Axles<br />
Title/Heading: DIFFERENTIALS &amp; AXLE SHAFTS - REAR / Installation<br />
Posted By: Tim__G <br />
Shop: JAYS CAR REPAIR<br />
Date: 3/17/2009</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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